Indian Cuisine: North meets South with Authentically
Flavored Faire at this Portage Favorite
By Matthew Downey
I am an Indian cuisine fanatic. In my life, I must have visited
more than 50 different Indian restaurants. I crave Indian food; it’s
my favorite ethnic faire. I love the sweet and spicy flavor of vegetable
Samosas with chutney sauce – there’s nothing like it. If
you haven’t tried Portage’s Indian Cuisine, it is sure to
please with its comprehensive menu that features both Northern and Southern
Indian favorites.
I had a delightful time chatting with Indian Cuisine’s owner,
Kamala Singh. On the day of my visit, Ms. Singh had just recently returned
to Portage after several trips to her hometown in India. She grew up
in a small Northern Indian village, Shivpur.
Ms. Singh has been living in the United States now for 45 years, 25
years here in Portage. She and her husband came to the area for his career
at Eaton Corporation. She opened Indian Cuisine in South Portage in 1992
with very little experience in the business. Kamala explains that she
started the business because it just seemed like a logical thing to do.
At the time there were no other Indian restaurants in the Kalamazoo area.
“Now, I have really taken a liking to it. I am a workaholic, and
a restaurant takes a lot of time,” Kamala adds.
After realizing strong success in the original location on Portage Road,
in 2002, they moved to the heart of Portage’s shopping district
at 600 Romence Road in The Hillside Center, next to the south entrance
of Crossroads mall.
This delightful location offers a spacious dining room and significant
space for large group parties. Manager Mohan Kidukath tells me that they
can host events for as many as 120 guests.
Indian spices and tandoor cooking
The origin of Indian food lies deep in ancient Indian and Hindu traditions.
This history and culture, and its flavors, all come alive at this special
Portage establishment.
Most non-Indian diners comment on the depth and richness of the spices
used in Indian cooking. The restaurant’s staff explains that most
all spices originate from India. The hot climate helps the spices grow.
Spices have both medicinal and preservative qualities. They tell me that
without spices, most vegetarian dishes would taste bland or boring.
Ms. Singh says with a slight chuckle, “With vegetarian dishes
you have to change the flavor; otherwise, you will get tired of it.”
Manager Kidukath explains that many folks are confused about Indian
food and the spices that are used. “Most customers believe that
curry is the hottest spice. It’s not, in fact, it’s not even
a spice. Curry in Hindi means ‘gravy’. And our curry is not “hot”;
of course, we can make anything ‘hot’ if a customer wants
it that way.”
Like most Indian restaurants, a tandoor oven is used for making some
of the restaurants key items, like its bread, Naan (pictured). The Indian
tandoor is a clay oven that reaches very high temperatures of about 550
F. It resembles a rounded bee-hive. Tandoori is a hotter and quicker
form of cooking than the western barbecue.
Northern Indian meets Southern Indian
A hallmark of Indian Cuisine is that they serve both North and South
Indian dishes. This is rare among most Indian restaurants. “The
two cuisines are both very different in style and taste. Not everyone
can make both well,” Ms. Singh points out.
Northern Indian cuisine is the most common among restaurants in the
United States. It has middle-eastern influences and tends to not be very
spicy. It uses meat and has wheat as a basic ingredient. Southern Indian
cooking is a rice-based cuisine and offers more vegetarian dishes. This
style also tends to be a little spicier.
Menu highlights
Kamala states that she is proud of everything they serve. “I especially
enjoy Chef Ali’s chicken curry ($10.95) or shrimp curry. Ali’s
chicken curry has a very authentic flavor.”
My perfect Indian Cuisine meal consists of the vegetable Samosas appetizer,
crisp pastry stuffed with mashed potatoes and green peas ($2.25) – these
are terrific, by the way, the staff tells me that they are so popular
they have one cook dedicated to preparing Samosas all day. For an entree,
I love the Korma Chicken, juicy chicken served in a mild cream sauce
with basmathi rice ($11.95) and Naan bread ($2.00). And for dessert,
Kheer, traditional rice pudding, is always a treat ($2.75).
Manager Kidukath explains that customers especially enjoy these dishes:
Vegetable Kebob, cooked in the clay oven, vegetables are marinated then
skewered and grilled and served with rice ($9.95); Mixed Grill, mix of
Indian flavored meats and cooked in the clay oven, served with rice ($13.95).
Another favorite is the Chicken Tikka Masala (pictured), Murgh Tikka
cooked with green peppers and onions in a tomato-based cream sauce and
served with rice ($11.95). Murgh Badam Pasanda is a specialty of the
house and is also a dish they recommend for children. This mildly-spiced
marinated chicken breast is sauteed in butter, simmered in almond sauce
and served with rice ($12.95).
Indians are known for tasty specialty drinks; most popular is the mango-flavored
Lassi yogurt drink ($2.75). A full bar and wine list is also available.
A great way to try Indian Cuisine, especially for those who have never
had Indian, is to visit the restaurant’s daily all-you-can-eat
lunch buffet.
I have brought several first-timers to try out Indian Cuisine and the
establishment has never once disappointed. The cuisine is perfect for
large gatherings, a unique business lunch or an adventurous night out.
Indian Cuisine
600 Romence Road, Suite 140
Portage, MI 49024
269-324-4886
www.theindiancuisine.com
Full Buffet: Tuesday – Friday 11:00 AM – 3:00 PM, Saturday
12 Noon – 3:30 PM, and Sunday 12 Noon - 9:00 PM.
Dinner: Tuesday – Thursday 5:00 PM – 10:00 PM, Friday – Saturday
5:00 PM – 10:30 PM.
Closed on Mondays.
