The Union

Cabaret & Grille

Different. Better.
By Anne Elias

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Pressed and polished (but without the starch!), Millennium’s only cabaret-style restaurant, The Union, offers live entertainment four nights a week.

This super-casual downtown Kalamazoo hotspot is a twist on the typical Millennium Restaurant Group identity. A partnership with the local Western Michigan University, more than half the entertainment is provided by WMU students, faculty, or alumni. The partnership is not only apparent in the music, however. Entering from the City Center building (to which The Union is adjacent), the floor-boards are from the original gymnasium floor of the Oakland Gym, a WMU landmark. An abundant array of Western photos, old and new, are displayed around the restaurant, and the original artwork is always provided by Western’s College of Fine Arts. All that is true of a college “hang-out” can be said of the Union: the electricity in the air that can only be found in a college town, the feeling of camaraderie between tables seated in the dining room. But the Union defies the corner-bar mentality in nearly every way.

The feel of this local haunt is more than just a restaurant that has live music. Much like a Chicago Jazz bar, consorting at The Union is different. Better. It’s a departure from the Midwest, a locale that provides a feeling as much as it does a great meal.

The bar divides the dining room in half, and the crescent curvature provides the perfect seat from which to take in the jazz trio or 12 piece big band onstage. It features a brushed metal surface that is cool to the touch, and to the eye. Three close friends leaning against it are the norm, albeit the martini list is not. Try the ‘buzztini’, made with real espresso, or the ‘thrilla vanilla’, with amazing white chocolate Godiva. A low-sitting contrast to the bar is the cushy stage tables that surround the raised performance area. While reminiscent of an old world restaurant or club, it somehow provides a new age twist when incorporated into The Union. Martinis not your thing? The Union offers a full bar and twelve beers on tap, too.

The dining room offers higher tables for performance seekers, and lower spots for serious diners, and the menu doesn’t disappoint. A twist on American, Chef Eric Gillish offers some amazing eats, and the collection of items are highlighted with some great signature dishes. The Portobello fries, for example, can’t be found on any other menu in the city, and are homemade: strips of Portobello mushroom, with parmesan and fennel breading, served with curried stone-ground mustard sauce for dipping. For dinner, why not try the Ancho Grilled Salmon filet, with a mild ancho rub, char grilled and served over calico rice. Its partner, the citrus aioli, is the perfect accompaniment!

Although The Union’s menu is a casual one, it is not without its whimsical surprises and often surprisingly modest pricing. The casual-yet-attentive service style adds to the festive atmosphere, allowing patrons to enjoy all the more.

It’s clear. The Union. Different. Better.

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